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Shaxi Yang Family Courtyard
Dali, Yunnan, China
In the high-altitude quiet of Shaxi Town, within Yunnan’s Jianchuan County, the Yang Family Courtyard stands as a monument to the ancient Yunnan-Tibet Tea Horse Road. Built during the late Yuan and early Ming dynasties, this ancestral mansion has sheltered nineteen generations of the Yang family. Its builder, a wealthy maguotou, or caravan leader, accumulated his fortune transporting tea and salt across rugged mountain passes. He designed this structure to serve as both a private family sanctuary and a madian, a bustling inn for traveling merchants and their pack animals.
The courtyard follows the classic Bai ethnic layout known as Sanfang Yizhaobi. Three two-story timber-and-brick residential blocks flank a central patio. On the fourth side, an ornate whitewashed screen wall, or zhaobi, catches the sharp southern sun, bouncing soft light into the rooms while shielding the family from outside eyes. Visitors can touch the smooth, worn stone flags of the patio where horses once rested. The air carries a faint scent of aged pine and cedar. Overhead, the eaves showcase the legacy of Jianchuan woodcarvers, who left precise chisel marks on the delicate window lattices and complex brackets.
Time eventually isolated Shaxi, leaving the courtyard in quiet neglect. In 2001, the World Monuments Fund placed the surrounding Sideng Street on its watch list of endangered sites, sparking a joint Sino-Swiss rehabilitation project. Between 2021 and 2022, local carpenters and preservationists executed a state-funded restoration, reinforcing the aging timber frames and repairing the historic facades.
Today, the courtyard is protected as part of the Sideng Street Ancient Architectural Complex, a Yunnan Provincial-level Cultural Relics Protection Unit. It now functions as an immersive space where visitors can experience historical caravan life and the traditional art of Jiama woodblock prints. Outside, the Heihui River murmurs past the nearby East Gate. Inside, the quiet courtyard remains a physical record of regional trade, architectural genius, and the enduring spirit of the Bai people.