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Jingzhou Xuanmiao Taoist Temple
Jingzhou, Hubei, China
Near the Xiaobei Gate of Jingzhou's ancient city walls, the Xuanmiao Taoist Temple stands on a quiet stretch of Jingbei Road. Founded during the Tang Dynasty, the temple derives its name from Laozi's Tao Te Ching, referencing the gateway to all wonders. Over thirteen centuries, the site survived imperial renamings, the ash of a devastating fire in 1513, and a forced name change during the Qing Dynasty to avoid the personal name of the Kangxi Emperor.
The temple reached its peak in the Yuan Dynasty under the abbot Tang Dongyun. Tang traveled thousands of miles to gather donations, transforming the complex. His efforts pleased Emperor Shundi, who designated the site the Jiulao Xiandu Palace in 1339 and declared Tang the Ninth Immortal. Visitors can touch the cold surface of the Jiulao Xiandu Palace Record Stele, carved in 1343, which stands 285 centimeters tall to the right of the Jade Emperor Pavilion. The scholar Ouyang Xuan composed its text, and the calligrapher Wei Su brushed the characters, leaving their physical marks on the Jianghan Plain's oldest surviving inscription.
The architecture follows a traditional Chu-style layout, rising along a north-south axis. At the front, the square-plan Jade Emperor Pavilion, rebuilt in 1584, features triple fly-eaves that taper upward like a pagoda. A bronze lotus seat crowns the roof apex, catching the afternoon light. Behind it, climbing a steep flight of stone stairs leads to the Three Heavens Gate, a brick-and-stone portal built on a six-meter-high platform. This elevated foundation supports the Zihuang Hall, a double-eaved sanctuary where worshippers have gathered for centuries. Inside, nine Ming Dynasty iron Buddhas stand in silent assembly, while a Qing Dynasty iron bell, cast with a dragon ridge and monkey-face patterns, holds the memory of a deep, metallic ring.
Today, as part of the Jiulao Xiandu Scenic Area, the temple remains a preserved sanctuary where the physical weight of history rests quietly in stone, wood, and iron.