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Huize Xilai Monastery
Qujing, Yunnan, China
At the foot of Jinzhong Mountain, Xilai Monastery anchors the western edge of Zhongping Street. Built in 1733 through the fundraising efforts of a Buddhist nun, the complex stands as a quiet survivor of Huize’s long history. The town itself functions as an open-air museum of Ming and Qing architecture, and Xilai Monastery sits adjacent to the local Confucian Temple, creating a traditional pairing of religious and scholastic life.
Visitors entering the courtyard step into the deep shade of two three-hundred-year-old cypress trees. Their gnarled branches frame the Daxiong Baodian, the main hall. This structure features a classic single-eave gable and hip roof supported by a traditional pillar-and-tie timber frame. Wooden brackets support the flying eaves, while mythical beasts sit along the roof ridges to ward off misfortune. Inside, the scent of incense mingles with the low resonance of a massive bronze bell cast with the characters for "National Prosperity and Peace." A large ceremonial drum rests nearby, marking the rhythm of daily monastic life.
The physical form of the monastery carries the marks of modern upheaval. During the 1950s, the grounds were repurposed as a firecracker factory, leading to a fire that consumed the gatehouse and side halls. In 1976, urban planners drove a new street directly through the courtyard, demolishing the front hall entirely. The survival of the current complex is the result of local devotion. In 1984, a group of resident nuns gathered the funds to rebuild the mountain gate using traditional cantilevered brackets and began repopulating the halls with new statues, including a Jade Buddha brought from Ruili.
Stone steles from the Qing dynasty line the grounds, their surfaces carved with shallow reliefs of dragons and traditional symbols, recording centuries of repairs. Carved couplets hang on the pillars, offering direct philosophical instruction. One reads, "People of the world, the dharma has no fixed dharma," urging visitors toward a mindset of flexibility and detachment. The temple also holds a specific place in local folklore. In 1883, a pregnant woman fleeing a family dispute sought refuge here. She gave birth to a son within the temple walls, hiding the infant in a wooden cabinet to avoid detection. That child, Tang Jiyao, grew up to become a prominent military leader and governor of Yunnan.
Today, Xilai Monastery remains one of the most heavily attended Buddhist sites in the county. It functions as a working religious center, hosting regular temple fairs and daily worship. The surviving halls, the ancient trees, and the steady hum of chanted sutras offer visitors a direct connection to the enduring spiritual life of the region.